Butterick Retro Again!

Heads up, it's Butterick sale time (again), this time all current patterns are $2.88 including the Retro range.  Is it me, or has the retro range shrunk? And why don't McCall's have one I wonder? And considering how prolific they were in the 50s, why is the Simplicity repro range so poor?

I am only just starting to find some of the great repro patterns that are now long out-of-print a second time.  These two lovelies arrived in the post this morning:

There seems to have been a spate of scallop hem tutorials recently so perfect skirt pattern to complement those, I have some brown crepe looking for the perfect pattern partner. The misses and girls coat pattern includes misses S to L and girls sizes 2 to 8 in the one envelope - what value!

I've blogged before of my love for mother-daughter patterns, but is it a little sad or is it cute? (Bearing in mind my daughter is not quite 2 and too young to choose what she wears, although I do ask her opinion and she's very good at demonstrating when she doesn't want to wear something!)

Also in the post this morning:

Part one of my floral summer dress.  Just have to draft a suitable bodice now but I'm not in a hurry since summer seems to be on holiday!

I notice on the back that there a typical Vogue clothing label, this one "Vogue Vintage Model" and the "Ask at counter for this label" instruction that featured on some original Vogue patterns.  Are they actually reproducing labels again? I've not seen them about... There was also some stern copyright regulations about not producing garments to sell from this pattern.  I suspect the debate over extent of copyright still rages though...

Jumpsuiting for Joy

Oooh, that was a cheesy title but I've been thinking about puns around jumpsuits and overalls for a week or so now after posting about the my jumpsuit pattern addiction. I'm thinking about doing a project later in the year where I will sew jumpsuits from all the patterns I own for them...

I enjoy reading about other people's projects and always contemplate taking on a project but I have to admit to lacking the time and dedication, I'm a classic case for starting sewing projects and then taking years to finish them off (I blame a penchant for over-complicating things and work sewing for getting in my way all too often!). My toddler has also taught me that although I may think I am entitled to free time during my day, if she doesn't feel like allowing it then I can't, no pointing bleating at her that "it's not fair!".

What's far more exciting at the moment though is that my jumpsuit junkie confession has won me another pattern for the collection, courtesy of the very lovely Stacey at sImpetersen. Isn't it cute? I've drafted dungarees for Mango before now so I'm going to use the pattern as a basis for drafting her a spring playsuit, then have a play with it to help create an idea for a playsuit for me that's been in my head awhile as this pattern already looks pretty close to it.

I love the concept behind Stacey's giveaway - "paying it forward".  She put up three patterns because that is what she has won, what a great giveaway theme, so I'm definitely going to follow it, probably as a spring celebration, I think (I can't wait for the arrival of spring, can you tell?!). Stacey already has has another giveaway on which ends tomorrow so pop over to  have a look and enter.  Today is the regular Wordless Wednesday, simply a photograph for inspiration, another lovely idea.


Random Throw Backs

Further to my post about vintage and repro patterns, I am sure many of you will recognise this pattern.

One of my favourite eBay pattern sellers, Oncillakat has this for sale.  Click here if you want a closer look and to see her other patterns, but beware, she has so many lovely vintage patterns at excellent prices you may find your visit separating you from a few dollars!
 

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And if you recall that day I found Batman lurking in my fabric stash?

Well I was sent this in an email recently and it made me chuckle!

Happy sewing y'all!

Something Old, Something New(ish)

It strikes me that pattern companies are onto something great with the retro/repro lines they are doing.  I recall reading on the Vogue website that they are always interested in suggestions for patterns to recreate from days gone by (and not just 40s and 50s but favoured 60s and 70s too). You must be willing to part with your pattern for a while so that it may be copied but it is returned and you get  a few freebie patterns in return, not a shabby deal. 

Quite what the criteria for selection is I am not sure, marketability is obviously a list topper, but the patterns all seem to be pretty samey, a selection of 1950's  full-skirts and wiggle dresses with minor bodice and finish differences. But as vintage pattern enthusiasts we know there is a plethora of much desired patterns out there that would surely have us running to pattern shops in droves if they were re-released.  Take this one for example that I was recently outbid on. I adore it, I am a self-confessed jumpsuit junkie. I could draft it myself from a dress jumper bodice and a pair of slacks but the idea of the trousered jumpsuit patten from the '50s, its such a rare item to see. Of course I am disappointed that it won't be gracing my collection, but with the winning bid coming at £36 (yes, that much!) it was never to be!

Simplicity seem to be the only pattern company going the slacks route and a sharp-eyed Debi (My Happy Sewing Place) recently discovered that their 3688 pattern is a bit of a fraud for the original didn't actually have a slacks pattern included, it has been incorporated on the re-release (click link for her post).  Hmm, naughty tactic but good on them, authentic slacks patterns are hard to find, or rather, not so hard to find if you are willing to part with a fair few pounds for them!  So BMV, lets have some slacks and gorgeous 30s louge pyjama pants pretty-please?

Who's drooling with me? Want it? Just £35!

Next on the wish list, 1940s/50s styles swimsuits.  Who wouldn't want to own that pattern? Incredibly feminine, figure flattering and with sufficient coverage to ensure the disguising of hips and thighs and any other bits we swear wobble too much!  The originals always sell well, again they are few and far between. A repro could be just what we need.


One of the most satisfying things as a vintage pattern collector must be coming across a reproduced pattern and thinking "I own that - the original!".  I hear that an original copy of the Walkaway dress (re-released as Butterick 4790) could earn you quite a lot of smackeroos if you came to part with it.  Last week I came across Butterick 6174, a 1999 release of a 50s pattern, it was familiar, I could swear I owned it but I would have remembered it being a retro pattern, so quick stash visit and hello Butterick 6001! Purchased for a bargain £3.11 plus shipping! Of course it is tiny and I will have to grade it up to use it but there-in lies the beauty of the repro pattern, modern multi-sizing! 

You look familiar...

Hello pretty bargain!

A quick visit to the Butterick website made me smile, I also own in original form this cutie:

And very nearly bought this original recently:














So over to you, dear reader.  Which patterns would you like to see in reprint?  Or would you prefer to own the original masterpiece?

Favourite Blogs: Sew Retro

Sew Retro gets my FB vote this week. I've been following it for a while, as mentioned previously its a daily visit for me. As I've just become a member of the blog, I thought it really deserved a post here. So what I like about Sew Retro

1. It makes me feel normal to own 300 vintage patterns, most of which are not in my size. In fact it makes me feel like I do not own enough.

2. It makes me drool into my cornflakes with envy over the patterns other people own and the fabric they use and the time they have to do all of these wonderful creations.

3. It is just so lovely to be in a place with like-minded sewers and vintage enthusiasts. There are so many tips, ideas, support, camaraderie and much inspiration to be found here. The only thing is, I found myself thinking, I want to be able to put out a plea for help on projects but that's really a forum think, et voila, a lovely Sew Retro member creates a sewing circle for Sew Retro. Star!

So visit, flow, join, share, post to Sew Retro and prepare to lose far more of your day as you follow people off to their various blog homes...

Awesomeness! The Simplicity Sewing Book

I love my vintage patterns, I do.  Among the gems on my vintage book shelf are The Singer Sewing Book and this one, the Simplicity Sewing Book.  It's a great reference for all things vintage pattern related including (very usefully) sizing, fitting and period clothing features such as collars and sleeves, as well as reference for hair and make-up and just for its vintageness - a reflection on history.

Even the front cover is thrilling, the beautiful housewife in her stripy apron bestowing her sewing know-how on to the next generation (who looks far too old to be her daughter!).

Then an encouraging foreword on making us "look our prettiest"

Look at the stapling in the side.  Now the real coup for vintage pattern junkies, a measuring and fitting guide from the same era.  For more excellent advice on choosing vintage pattern sizes go to Gertie's blog here.

Now, I hope you find that useful!  Here's some more tips for you...

I notice two things, firstly the ridiculously tiny waists and secondly that last dress is the same as the too-old-to-be-her-daughter girl is wearing on the front cover.  Now for more tips, don't forget your colour, presenting the grandmas of Colour Me Beautiful...

 

Aren't they a freaky looking bunch?! Here's another useful page for you.  I thought novelty fabric was something that snowmen or easter bunnies printed on it.  Apparently in 1953, this was novelty fabric:

I'm creating a page on my blog especially for this book and will be adding some more sections (collars, sleeves, etc) that you might find of interest.  Isn't it lovely :-)  I'll leave you with this:

Project: Butterick B4790 Retro 1952 - The Walk-away Dress

This dress has much fame which I did not know about when I commenced this project, I just though it was unusual and pretty and I love the way the straight skirt and full skirt are all part of one dress the goes over the head and wraps around the waist.

  

A few years ago I went to Ceilidh event in Scotland and we were instructed to dress in tartan.  Not owning anything appropriate and wanting something that would benice to dance in. I chose this Butterick pattern because I wanted a vintage style dress with a skirt that would twirl beautifully.  I liked the underskirt of this dress design thinking it might protect my modesty if the skirt twirled too high and as it doesn't have a seam at the back it doesn't restrict movement.  

I found some great linen in a cream and black plaid print which is very cool on the skin and easy to sew and teamed that up with a gorgeous black jersey crepe which swirled wonderfully (unfortunately it proved a little too heavy and I now have to do some repair work to the bias binding at some point).  If you want to read reviews of making up this pattern and see what others have done with it go here and here.  Pictures of the (almost) finished item:

Edit 26.06.10 I have just commented about about this dress here.  I thought I should copy it across but it is a critique of the pattern that I didn't put into my review at SPR, although I might change that now:

I gave this dress a pretty sharp review at Sewing Pattern Review then felt a bit guilty and softened it up since it had so many fans.  I made mine in a heavy jersey crepe for the full skirt and linen for the pencil skirt dress and despite putting all that weight into the full skirt do not have these probs but I have others!.  I am thinking why and I believe it is because:

a) the waist curves round and fastens exactly on my waist and there's a good 11 inches between that and my hips (I am hourglass) so its securely held in place.  Also I am only using a button and loop on the back so its not too tight around the hips which would cause it to rise up.  The under-dress fits me like a glove actually, I'm thinking of converting it into a dress of its own.

b) the front and bust darts are in line with my apex - a fluke due to being low-busted - and my full bust fills the bodice with no FBA done.  I can see why that would be a problem for someone who is small busted, masses amount of extra fabric. The problem I have with the bodice is above my bust there is excess fabric but that is a very simple fix, I just shorten it at the shoulder seams and voila, perfect fit.

The issues I had were:  While the underskirt fitted perfectly, the waistline of the full skirt appears to be slightly lower (shoulder seams fine).  This meant that when it is wrapped round front it is too low and awkward and the gathering at the waistband added a lot of unflattering bulk at my hips. To resolve this I pull the full skirt part up a bit but then that causes the armholes to gape.  This was already a slight problem because of the extra length in the bodice and the pattern might benefit from the bust darts being angled down from the lower armhole instead of where they are.

I had fabric related issues too. The weight of the crepe pulled the dress apart at the bias tape and the hooks and eyes on the front so I have to repair the bias tape trim and find a different fastening (I originally intended to do buttons and loops but ran out of time so probably will do that with black elastic loops and an inner ribbon for support).  

On the plus side, when I dance in it the full skirt swirled out beautifully with the underskirt protecting my modesty.  However I was concerned at times that the underskirt doesn't quite extend enough round the back an I might flash a bit more flesh than I'd like when the full skirt drops away...

In summary, if I remade the dress I would extend the front panel where it meets a little to prevent this strain and then trim it back as necessary and instead of bias tape loops I would use elastic to make loops.  I would extend the sides of the underskirt to provide more coverage at the back and if necessary add horsehair braid to the hem to keep it down and wrapped round.  I would also move the bust dart to the armhole and shorten the bodice at the shoulder seams.