I am making View B with the surplice bodice, this is for a forthcoming wedding (Tash's hence the name), the the style suits the wedding theme. Plus I have some gorgeous fabric I'm just dying to wear, plus I have enough to make my lil darling something in the same fabric :-)
I will add updates and pics as I progress but here's the pattern envelope for now and a pic iof the pattern on Diana. I looked it up on Wiki VP and apparently it was featured in the 1960 catalogue.
Tissue Fitting & Alterations
The pattern is 32" chest which is just shy of my high bust measurement (full bust is 35), waist is 25", until 16 months ago that was my waist measurement now as the last of the baby weight shifts its around 26". Tissue fitting looks lovely from the front, I measure 2" of ease in the bodice but when Di is spun round there's a gape at the back where the pattern doesn't meet CB in the midriff panel (fine in the bodice oddly). Conclusion grade up by 1 inch and 1.5" FBA for the 'heaving bosom'. At least choosing the surplice view will add some style ease for the bust too.
On tracing off the pattern I notice the lack of bust dart and head off to Google for instructions on dartless FBA [NOTE TO MOLLY - PUT LINKS HERE]. I've never done dartless before, its limited to 1.5" increase, which just happens to be my adjustment, and I seem to have three options.
1. is to create a dart bust dart but I want to to keep to the pattern on this one so onto number
2. create a bust dart then the rotate it round to the neckline. This is the one I wish I had done.
3. is to slash the bodice, move the armhole up and out and move a CF section down then true the lower seamline. This is the one I did then had no end of headaches trying to true the seamline whilst figuring out the correct position and shape of the waist tuck (not dart). Eventually I settled for redrawing the tuck and leaving a wide seam allowance which I could draw up into the bodice if needed. My storyboard of this process is below:
I then made up a toile to see what the fit was like and lo, it actually fits, the dart ends just below my bust in a nice position (probably a bit close but I like it there), I am pleased.
It does need a further adjustment though, the fabric is pulling at the shoulder towards the bust. I don't want to add more to the bust so I think I will just add a bit more length at the shoulder seam line? And instead of upsetting the sleevehole which I have maintained so far I am going to take the extra length into the neckline which could also benefit from a bit of re-angling.
Also I need to review how the waist tuck works when made up, I like it but it worries me so I have a plan B which is to convert it to gathers. I found these two pictures for inspiration:
The green dress I found, while looking for examples of gathered surplice bodices, on Hungry Zombie Couture's page, see here.
I haven't downloaded the toile pics yet, I will post something when I have and any news :-)
Did you end up making this dress? Mine has become a wadder, I'll start it again one day.
ReplyDeleteI found all the sections in a box yesterday as it happens! I keep meaning to go back to it, but there's something putting me off. I feel a bit lost in my progress on it and need to have an absolute clear head when I go back to it. At the moment, I have so much else going on I don't have that head, but I hope I will get it done for this summer!
ReplyDelete